Fish Cheeks Still Hooks New Yorkers With Bold Thai Seafood

On a breezy Wednesday evening in early September, the sidewalk outside Fish Cheeks on Bond Street in Nolita buzzes with anticipation. Inside, the space is awash in flashes of turquoise tile and neon-bright murals, a backdrop as lively as the plates emerging from the open kitchen. Since opening their doors ten years ago, co-owners and brothers Ohm and Chat Suansilphong have steered clear of the expected, sidestepping pad Thai and focusing instead on the robust, seafood-centric flavors of coastal Thailand.

Fish Cheeks has carved out a loyal following by serving unapologetic spice and freshness — think coconut crab curry, fiery grilled skate, and a lime-drenched prawn ceviche that regularly prompts wide-eyed first bites. At $28 for a whole branzino, dressed in chili-lime sauce and showered with fried garlic, the price point sits comfortably between weeknight splurge and date-night destination. It’s a formula that continues to draw both industry insiders and casual diners, even as new Thai restaurants open across the city.

The Suansilphongs’ refusal to dilute their flavors for a Western palate has become a calling card. On a recent Friday, diners lingered over tables crowded with sticky rice, wok-charred morning glory, and a signature crab fried rice that’s been on the menu since day one. Servers move with practiced speed, explaining the nuances of nam prik relishes and suggesting cooling lychee cocktails for first-timers caught off guard by the heat.

As autumn settles in and the city’s food scene pivots toward heartier fare, Fish Cheeks remains an outlier — at once a neighborhood anchor and a culinary passport to the Andaman coast. With new seafood specials promised later this month and an ever-changing roster of market-driven ingredients, the restaurant’s relevance feels anything but static. In a city obsessed with the next big opening, Fish Cheeks shows how staying true to your roots can keep the crowds coming.